Restaurants
30/60 pts
A tasting menu in a serious room
On-line review · 30/60 pts
Fourteen courses, one personality
I sat for three hours and was told what I was tasting. Some of it was beautiful. I wanted a steak.
A tasting menu in a serious room
MINUTECRITIC · Jul 29, 2026
The tasting menu is a show. Courses arrive like scenes. A waiter explains a foam. I had two bites that I will remember and twelve that I will not. The wine pairings tried to be a plot. I should have ordered a beer and been honest.
I do not hate fine dining. I hate the assumption that duration equals meaning. A great plate is a great plate. A parade is a parade. I left full and a little talked-at. That is the score.
Once a year, maybe, if the room is the point. Not a way to eat. Not a personality.
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